Physics — Ocean Waves
Deep- and shallow-water wave speed.
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v = \sqrt{\frac{g\lambda}{2\pi}} \;\text{(deep water)}
v = \sqrt{gd} \;\text{(shallow water)}
T = \frac{\lambda}{v}
\text{waves refract toward the shore}
Deep- and shallow-water wave speed.
v = \sqrt{\frac{g\lambda}{2\pi}} \;\text{(deep water)}
v = \sqrt{gd} \;\text{(shallow water)}
T = \frac{\lambda}{v}
\text{waves refract toward the shore}